Wine of the Week! 01/29/04

Canto alla Moraia Bacco Felice Chianti

Normally $17.99 / Now on Sale for $13.96
80% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Malvasia Nera (Chianti D.O.C.G.)

Tenuta Canto alla Moraia is a family-owned vineyard in Tuscany. It all started in the 1950s when brothers Giovanni and Mario Lebole purchased a 200-hectare farm in Castiglion Fibocchi, near Arezzo. Interestingly enough, they bought the land from Duke Amedeo of Aosta. (The property was part of a fief that was originally gifted to the a branch of the Medicis before transferring to the Aostas. Europe — you’re bound to run into royalty sometime.)

The brothers started farming grapes with their parents while, at the same time following Giovanni’s passion, raising race horses. Giovanni’s daughter Sylvia met her future husband, Rudolfo, at one of their horse races, and the two are the current owners. They farm organically and biodynamically, their respect for nature going so far that their logo is an ancient druidic symbol.

The Bacco Felice (“Happy Bacchus”) Chianti is mostly Sangiovese with a little Canaiolo (which used to be the dominant Chianti grape until Sangiovese took over in the late 19th Century) and a little of the aromatic and rich Malvasia Nera. The grapes undergo spontaneous malolactic fermentation with native yeasts and rest on their lees in stainless steel. The wine then spends a minimum of three months aging in the bottle.

The Bacco Felice is a pleasantly smooth Chianti. Fresh red berry fruit seamlessly merges with medium tannins, the Canaiolo and Malvasia Nera tempering the more rustic notes that Sangiovese can have. It’s surprisingly full for a medium-bodied wine that still offers some freshness on the palate.